In the middle of Estonia,苏马国家公园是一个充满冒险精神的景观,既独特又美丽。A raised bog growing 8 meters above ground,苏马国家公园是一个疯狂泛滥的景观,我们决定在导游的帮助下探索,期待在划独木舟回到起点之前,在公园中发现偏远的地方。这是我们在爱沙尼亚探索的两个国家公园之一,另一个是拉希玛国家公园.


Algis来自SOOMAA.commet us in the morning with snowshoes (we needed them not to sink) and we set off from a cozy log cabin under the first snowfall of the year in late October. It was lunar,eerie and oh-so-strange to be walking on water through a landscape with very few pointers as to directions for the untrained eye.如果你在寻找一种野生和稀有的自然体验,今天和孩子们出去玩很开心。

First Snow in Soomaa


We woke up in a little log cabin at the edge of the park with thick snowflakes falling sideways and covering the ground.虽然我们希望会下雪,今年早些时候,下雪是不确定的,在乡村的木桌上吃早餐真是太好了。looking out on the outside hot tub and barbecue becoming whiter and whiter.

早餐后,Algisour guide for the day,shoed up in his van with rubber boots and snow shoes in the trunk.Given the weather,他决定我们最好穿雪鞋。We all grabbed a pair and started walking.We followed the road for a bit,then crossed a field (where a wolf was spotted a few years ago) and then had to watch for branches as we bushwhacked through a pine forest.The ground was mossy and bouncy,洗澡后感觉像一块厚厚的地毯。

Bogshoeing 101


当阿尔及斯说我们应该穿雪鞋的时候,我们仍然看不到沼泽地。Somewhere in my imagination,我原以为苏马国家公园的沼泽地会从一个大标志开始,上面写着沼泽地,然后景观会发生巨大的变化。The truth is,the bog had gradually encroached on the landscape.松树变得越来越少,而且尺寸越来越小。在我们面前,a vast flat expanse opened up,远处有几棵树,中间看不到景色。沼泽地很自然,因为它只是穿着雪鞋走路,但一开始很累。My girls complained that it was hard work and indeed,尽管下雪了,我们很快都出汗了。


Flora of Soomaa National Park


苏马国家公园的独特之处在于那里生长的植物群。如果我正确理解阿尔及斯的解释,沼泽是一种以每年1毫米的速度生长的生物。which explains why it's 8 meters above ground (do your math,it's very old).它也被泥炭地森林包围和混合,which explains why the flooded bog doesn't suddenly dry out and stays a wetland year-round.泥炭用作防水屏障。


Because of the harsh conditions,很少有植物能在沼泽中生存,其中许多受到保护。显然,苏马是个沼泽,it was moss heaven and indeed,我们从一开始就在青苔上行走。To us,moss looked like moss but to Algis,我们面前有许多不同种类的苔藓。The park also counted sword lilies,Siberian irises,草地唐菖蒲或石头作物。

Soomaa is even host to a species of Daphne whose red berries are very poisonous to humans.阿尔及斯一告诉我们有毒的植物,betway经典老虎机we all looked at the landscape with a lot more respect,wondering if we would be able to recognize it (the answer is no).On the upside,沼泽地是天然的蔓越莓栖息地,苏玛阿对传统的沼泽浆果并不陌生。令我们惊讶的是,Algis mentioned that his neighbor harvests up to 500 kg of cranberries in the bog every year.布莱米那是很多蔓越莓酱!当然,Algishis neighbor and all other Estonians are professional foragers at heart.



It may come as a surprise,but bogs have lakes.当阿尔及斯提到夏天人们在这些湖里游泳时,I knew I had been right to pack my swim gear.在第一个有游泳梯的湖上,I asked to stop for a swim.不慌不忙的,Algis said yes,and yet we were surrounded by snow in bitter cold.难怪,Algis' sister is a hardened Estonian winter swimmer!我喜欢的好东西非常冷的游泳too.

As soon as I stepped on the ladder,感觉有点滑,所以我就游了进去。没有护目镜,我所能看到的只是我下面的黑暗,当我在湖中央转身看我的腿时,they were blood red.The water was red!一定有矿物质(铁?)或使水变红但作为游泳者的植被类型,这令人不安。虽然阿尔及斯说过湖很深,I kept my feet way toward the surface and slowly made my way back.What a wonderful place to swim.绝对是独一无二的体验。



湖后,we 必威体育app官网hiked on wooden boardwalks,这使进展更快,但也有一些滑的时刻,因为雪变成了泥浆。Within minutes,我们到达一个高大的金属望塔,爬上观景台,鸟瞰公园。它看起来太大了!


Traditional Estonian Lunch


我参加过户外旅游,午餐是装在管子里的番茄酱,oat cakes and cheddar.Now,at the edge of Soomaa,阿尔及斯把所有的车站都停了下来,在一张临时桌上摆了一顿传统的爱沙尼亚大餐。This was a house under construction with a roof but no windows or doors.阿尔及斯早上停下来把柳条篮藏在房子里,我们的肚子咕哝着说,he offered Estonian herbal tea (a local mint variety),before laying out a nice tablecloth and a slow cooker filled with a steaming stew of barley,potatoes and lard.This was heaven!

我从来没见过这么好的午餐,我们都很感动,以及欣赏食物非常好。注:实盘,stainless steel cutlery and napkins.对,爱沙尼亚有风格的野餐午餐!Lunch ended on a sweet note with a rolled chocolate cream cake but after two bowls of hearty stew,our appetite was somewhat eroded.My,是时候出去划独木舟回到木屋了吗?

Canoeing on Raudna River and Halliste River


从发射点到里萨的木屋,我们在罗安达河(Raunda River)上沿着长达8公里的平静水域划水,然后汇入哈利斯特河(Halliste River)。With little current and low water,we paddled carefully,尽量避免芦苇或淹没的岩石。

Algis entertained us with tales of Soomaa National Park's "fifth" season,the season when all the area is flooded to the extent that you can canoe in the forest and between flooded houses.When heavy rains start at the beginning of the fifth season,这条河以每小时2厘米(1 1/8英寸)的惊人速度上涨。太疯狂了!我想看看,公平点。

After two hours,we reached our destination and thanked Algis for his explanations on the park and on Estonia.在木屋(带桑拿浴室)之间,温暖的大麦午餐和沼泽/独木舟探险,my girls really enjoyed this day but said that it might be too difficult for kids under 10.


  • Website:SoOMAA.www.
  • Algis Martsoo,Phone: +372 514 7572
  • Aivar Ruukel电话:+372 5061896
  • 邮箱:info@sooma.com

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Laure Latham

劳尔是个作家,environmental advocate,博客作者公开水域游泳,现在是母亲。She's passionate betway经典老虎机about inspiring families to必威安卓 enjoy the outdoors with their children,学会拔掉插头,过上健康的生活,giving kids life skills and exploring the world around us sharing Family Friendly,Fun Ideas for the whole family on betway体育app官网Frog Mom.

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